Tungsten vs. brass beads
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KimNorway
- Posts: 4
- Joined: Sat May 09, 2020 2:49 am
Tungsten vs. brass beads
Hi, I have and use both tungsten and gold beaded flies. Tungsten is of course good for getting deeper fast. Most of my fishing is done with gold beads, though (or without). I have never given much thought to if brass can scare the fish, though, or attract it. So, I am curious to hear other peoples experiences with weighted nymphs. What do you generally prefer? Naturally, it comes down to the type of river, and what you need in a certain situation. Deep and fast means tungsten, although more expensive to buy. More general situations, and most often, mean brass or unweighted, at least for me. Do you have any general thoughts about the differences between the beads, in practical fishing? I am not a big fan of split shots, but I guess many of you are. What do your fly boxes look like, and what bead do you seem to choose by default? I am planning to upgrade my fly box, that is why these thoughts came to mind.
Kim
Kim
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Blackhackle
- Posts: 13
- Joined: Wed May 21, 2014 10:17 am
- Location: Havelock North
Re: Tungsten vs. brass beads
I just use tungsten beads. Seems the first couple months of the season fish are attracted to the flash of gold or silver. After they have seen a few of those, it may have the opposite effect. From December into the fall I mainly use black beads or none. Once fall hits the fish usually really put on the feedbag pre-spawn and gold beads again work well. I generally fish smaller streams and use 2.3 or 2.4mm beads on size 14 and 16 flies, split shot added if necessary.
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Dave
- Posts: 157
- Joined: Sun May 11, 2014 10:31 am
- Location: Invercargill
Re: Tungsten vs. brass beads
Like Blackhackle I only use tungsten beads. I use 3mm on my #14 and 2.5mm on my #16. I use black or gold depending on what river I am fishing. having brass and tungsten in the same colour will just cause confusion. My #14 hare & copper have lead free wire as well as the tungsten bead. Ensures they sink. On #16 I don't use any weight other than the bead.
Dave
Dave
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KimNorway
- Posts: 4
- Joined: Sat May 09, 2020 2:49 am
Re: Tungsten vs. brass beads
Thanks for input. Should have pointed out that over the years, my box has developed a (rather unpractical) system, where all the brass beads are in gold/copper, and the tungsten beads are only in black. Probably because I only used brass gold/copper for many years, and didn't want to mix them with my new (black) tungsten. Thus, the colors have become a weight parameter in my box, in addition to gold beads sometimes being used as attraction.
This set up is mostly OK, especially here in Norway. But since I soon will tie heaps of new nymphs (for my new and bigger nymph box), I consider how to organize my box best, and what beads to choose. I guess the easiest is to only use different beads of tungsten, like you say, even though it cost a little bit more. Then have mostly black beads, and only a few gold or copper. How do you guys prefer to separate your flies according to weight, by the way? How know what flies have lead wire, for example? I have seen many variations of how to organize this, but I am always curious to hear other experiences. Especially with doubling the amount of flies in my box, and not using color of beads as weight parameter anymore.
This set up is mostly OK, especially here in Norway. But since I soon will tie heaps of new nymphs (for my new and bigger nymph box), I consider how to organize my box best, and what beads to choose. I guess the easiest is to only use different beads of tungsten, like you say, even though it cost a little bit more. Then have mostly black beads, and only a few gold or copper. How do you guys prefer to separate your flies according to weight, by the way? How know what flies have lead wire, for example? I have seen many variations of how to organize this, but I am always curious to hear other experiences. Especially with doubling the amount of flies in my box, and not using color of beads as weight parameter anymore.
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Andy W
- Posts: 234
- Joined: Tue May 13, 2014 2:01 pm
- Location: Christchurch
Re: Tungsten vs. brass beads
I am now buying a lot more coloured beads in tungsten - not just the regular black or gold, but also pink, green, orange, and rainbow hued. Some nymphs lend themselves to a change of colour - caddis being an example.
That said - I tie one particular soft hackle which is used to represent caddis emerging, and both browns and rainbows take it whether it has a gold or black bead. Yesterday my fishing buddy caught a brown on a black bead and I caught a rainbow and brown on the gold bead, same location. No rhyme or reason...
That said - I tie one particular soft hackle which is used to represent caddis emerging, and both browns and rainbows take it whether it has a gold or black bead. Yesterday my fishing buddy caught a brown on a black bead and I caught a rainbow and brown on the gold bead, same location. No rhyme or reason...
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Johnno
- Posts: 728
- Joined: Sat May 10, 2014 3:01 pm
Re: Tungsten vs. brass beads
Not a big fan of coloured beads, usually sticking with Black, Silver, Gold, Brass or Gun Metal. That’s Tungsten or Brass. Sometimes olive or brown but not keen on the garish colours. Have a few flies with them, but rarely use them.
Slightly off topic:
I personally hold the view that many NZers tend to vastly over-weight their flies. Double and triple beaded flies should be an exception, not the norm that some regard them. Some of the flies used on the Tongariro for eg are just plain stupid. Way way too heavy. Even Those over sized single beads... nup. If that means I can’t get to a very deep laying fish then fine. In this day and age of increased angling pressure, fish need a sanctuary and I’ll let then have it down deep.
In my locals, I’d rather prefer lighter nymphs that if required can be sunk deeper with judicious use of split shot up the tippet a bit. The lighter fly just swims and moves better in the water. With my TBeads, I’ll use 2mm on #14 and under, rarely would I use bigger than that.
Once upon a time we didn’t have beads. Remember? We caught shit loads without beads. Still can. It’s not the weight of the fly, it’s how it’s fished....
Heavy beaded flies don’t make for a better fisherman, just a lazy one.
Slightly off topic:
I personally hold the view that many NZers tend to vastly over-weight their flies. Double and triple beaded flies should be an exception, not the norm that some regard them. Some of the flies used on the Tongariro for eg are just plain stupid. Way way too heavy. Even Those over sized single beads... nup. If that means I can’t get to a very deep laying fish then fine. In this day and age of increased angling pressure, fish need a sanctuary and I’ll let then have it down deep.
In my locals, I’d rather prefer lighter nymphs that if required can be sunk deeper with judicious use of split shot up the tippet a bit. The lighter fly just swims and moves better in the water. With my TBeads, I’ll use 2mm on #14 and under, rarely would I use bigger than that.
Once upon a time we didn’t have beads. Remember? We caught shit loads without beads. Still can. It’s not the weight of the fly, it’s how it’s fished....
Heavy beaded flies don’t make for a better fisherman, just a lazy one.
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Boisker
- Posts: 247
- Joined: Sat May 10, 2014 8:28 pm
Re: Tungsten vs. brass beads
As above... I only have tungsten beads as trying to keep them separate was a pain.... so a number of patterns in tungsten (2, 2.5, 3 and just a few in 4 mm), adhesive lead foil and unweighted
- fraser hocks
- Posts: 874
- Joined: Sat May 10, 2014 3:25 pm
- Location: Queenstown
Re: Tungsten vs. brass beads
Yea id have to agree with Johnno. I carry very few beadheaded flys in my box. Sure their great to get down into a deep lie, but rarely need them. The only exception id say is I use orange beadhead flys in winter and spring. I feel it covers the fish well when they are transitioning from insects to eggs. Covers both bases with one fly as it were.
Have you tried using tungsten putty Johnno? I use it over splitshot now. I was put onto it a few years ago, when I couldn't find small enough splitshot. Works great as you can tweek the added weight to tiny amounts. I have one of those C&F chest patches on my vest. I leave a lump stuck inside there, so I can add weight if or when ever I need it.
Have you tried using tungsten putty Johnno? I use it over splitshot now. I was put onto it a few years ago, when I couldn't find small enough splitshot. Works great as you can tweek the added weight to tiny amounts. I have one of those C&F chest patches on my vest. I leave a lump stuck inside there, so I can add weight if or when ever I need it.
Bucking trends in fly fishing since 1970!
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Boisker
- Posts: 247
- Joined: Sat May 10, 2014 8:28 pm
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Kiwioz
- Posts: 57
- Joined: Mon May 12, 2014 11:25 am
Re: Tungsten vs. brass beads
Interesting discussion. Firstly, as I tie in a variety of weights add various beads, lead etc, I test the weight by dropping a selected nymph into the palm of my hand to test the weight. I have seen on forums people suggest using colour strips in their box to indicate nymph weights, but my nymph boxes tend to end up being somewhat randomly distributed weight wise. I use a few coloured beads, orange, gold, red, but mostly black. Coloured beads early season mostly.
The issue of weight in my view tends to be related to the water depth, where the fish are in the column, and their feeding behaviour i.e how far they are likely to move up or down the column to chase a nymph. I also use tungsten putty to give more natural movement to lightly weighted nymphs, and also and unweighted nymph tied off a weighted one. The choices all part of the mysterious artful science of trout fishing.
But to throw another variable into the discussion, many competition anglers (and others) are Czech nymphing as they chase numbers. This involves slim heavily weighted nymphs bouncing along the bottom with a couple of additional nymphs further up the water column. (No sanctuary on the bottom Johnno). Not my thing, but competition results would indicate it is an effective tactic.
Cheers,
Kiwioz
The issue of weight in my view tends to be related to the water depth, where the fish are in the column, and their feeding behaviour i.e how far they are likely to move up or down the column to chase a nymph. I also use tungsten putty to give more natural movement to lightly weighted nymphs, and also and unweighted nymph tied off a weighted one. The choices all part of the mysterious artful science of trout fishing.
But to throw another variable into the discussion, many competition anglers (and others) are Czech nymphing as they chase numbers. This involves slim heavily weighted nymphs bouncing along the bottom with a couple of additional nymphs further up the water column. (No sanctuary on the bottom Johnno). Not my thing, but competition results would indicate it is an effective tactic.
Cheers,
Kiwioz
Author: Transit of Fiordland
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